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Vietnam/Diện Biên Phủ Round the world trip 2008
3/21
Today our 76km ride was mountainous and through road construction. Almost all of the 76km! Another American couple on bikes stopped to visit who were heading in the other direction. We exchanged tips on road conditions: terrible for 80km in either direction; mountains and constant road construction. Oh well--at least we know what to expect.
Our ride began with a gentle climb of 30km and through major construction. When the new two lane road is completed, there won’t be many curves. The bulldozers are making huge cuts and major fills in the previously very curvy and hilly single lane road. The people we passed were dressed in traditional outfits: beautiful women and girls, slender and with the most erect postures. Elegance seeps from these lovely women as they troop into the rivers, ride bikes stacked with wood or as they carry huge loads over their shoulders in two baskets balanced on bamboo poles. The memories return of Guatemala, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia and the people in native dress. However, these Asian beauties are something to see.
As we came through one pass after another, a new valley spread before us with rice paddies sliding down to the valley floor. Huge paddle wheels draw water from the river to feed the fields. Karsts formations rise from the valley floors to create dramatic backdrops. Young boys on their single speed bikes race along with us, passing, dropping back in the ‘pelaton’ as we all ride through the villages waving ‘hello’.
When we crest the final hill, we are spent. The sun is hot and we are so dirty that Bici, our bags and us look like unfired ceramic figurines – all clay colored. We rode a bit to find the hotel the other couple recommended: The People’s Committee Guesthouse – A Block. It isn’t quite as bad as it sounds. The breeze is blowing through and the hot water shower delivers copious amounts of hot liquid! Yeah! The bathroom floor runs with clay colored water. After bathing and again returning to skin color, we ventured out for a Bia Hoi (local beer, brewed daily, dispensed from kegs and sold very cheaply on the street, where one hunkers on baby-sized chairs at equally small tables to drink). It took a couple false starts to find a cold one, but we are seasoned hunters of cold beer! After our throats were cleaned, we headed further down the street to find a restaurant recommended by two guidebooks. Our hostess sat with us and discussed the menu and then wrote down prices for each item. It seemed high, but our guidebook expounded on the English speakers and white table cloths. They did not mention it was a rip off or that as our hostess sat with us it was our opportunity to negotiate a fair price. We will learn soon how to travel in Vietnam where everything is negotiable and if one does not bargain, one is taken to the cleaners! I had hoped for good food at the high price, but alas, a market stall serves up much better for less. As we ate our meal the sky lit up with thunder and lightening, washing the dusty streets with a brief but heavy shower. As soon as the rain slowed, we ran back to our room, passing street cleaners removing the day’s debris!
A note about dogs: I thought Vietnamese ate dog. I wish they did. They snarl at me, come at me from under tables as we eat and bark, baring their ugly teeth. Restaurant owners take sticks to them, beating them out, but allowing one to stay to clean up the messes under the tables. Dogs were under the tables in Cambodia, but not aggressive like here! We haven’t experienced bad dogs since Peru. No wonder rabies inoculations are recommended for Vietnam travelers. I will need to keep a pocket of rocks for deterrents as we ride.
March 22-24 Vietnam/Son La Weltreise 2008 >
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March 20 Vietnam/Diện Biên Phủ Weltreise 2008
Today our 76km ride was mountainous and through road construction. Almost all of the 76km! Another American couple on bikes stopped to visit who were heading in the other direction. We exchanged tips on road conditions: terrible for 80km in either direction; mountains and constant road construction. Oh well--at least we know what to expect.
Our ride began with a gentle climb of 30km and through major construction. When the new two lane road is completed, there won’t be many curves. The bulldozers are making huge cuts and major fills in the previously very curvy and hilly single lane road. The people we passed were dressed in traditional outfits: beautiful women and girls, slender and with the most erect postures. Elegance seeps from these lovely women as they troop into the rivers, ride bikes stacked with wood or as they carry huge loads over their shoulders in two baskets balanced on bamboo poles. The memories return of Guatemala, Ecuador, Peru and Bolivia and the people in native dress. However, these Asian beauties are something to see.
As we came through one pass after another, a new valley spread before us with rice paddies sliding down to the valley floor. Huge paddle wheels draw water from the river to feed the fields. Karsts formations rise from the valley floors to create dramatic backdrops. Young boys on their single speed bikes race along with us, passing, dropping back in the ‘pelaton’ as we all ride through the villages waving ‘hello’.
When we crest the final hill, we are spent. The sun is hot and we are so dirty that Bici, our bags and us look like unfired ceramic figurines – all clay colored. We rode a bit to find the hotel the other couple recommended: The People’s Committee Guesthouse – A Block. It isn’t quite as bad as it sounds. The breeze is blowing through and the hot water shower delivers copious amounts of hot liquid! Yeah! The bathroom floor runs with clay colored water. After bathing and again returning to skin color, we ventured out for a Bia Hoi (local beer, brewed daily, dispensed from kegs and sold very cheaply on the street, where one hunkers on baby-sized chairs at equally small tables to drink). It took a couple false starts to find a cold one, but we are seasoned hunters of cold beer! After our throats were cleaned, we headed further down the street to find a restaurant recommended by two guidebooks. Our hostess sat with us and discussed the menu and then wrote down prices for each item. It seemed high, but our guidebook expounded on the English speakers and white table cloths. They did not mention it was a rip off or that as our hostess sat with us it was our opportunity to negotiate a fair price. We will learn soon how to travel in Vietnam where everything is negotiable and if one does not bargain, one is taken to the cleaners! I had hoped for good food at the high price, but alas, a market stall serves up much better for less. As we ate our meal the sky lit up with thunder and lightening, washing the dusty streets with a brief but heavy shower. As soon as the rain slowed, we ran back to our room, passing street cleaners removing the day’s debris!
A note about dogs: I thought Vietnamese ate dog. I wish they did. They snarl at me, come at me from under tables as we eat and bark, baring their ugly teeth. Restaurant owners take sticks to them, beating them out, but allowing one to stay to clean up the messes under the tables. Dogs were under the tables in Cambodia, but not aggressive like here! We haven’t experienced bad dogs since Peru. No wonder rabies inoculations are recommended for Vietnam travelers. I will need to keep a pocket of rocks for deterrents as we ride.
