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Lao People's Democratic Republic/Don Không Round the world trip 2008
3/7
Forty five kilometers took six hours. Obviously, there was a lot of climbing. It has been a long time since we have had to ride mountains/steep grades of 10% +, and after our extended holidays off the bike, today was exertion. The beginning of the ride out of Kasi we wheeled through pretty farming areas with bits and pieces of remaining forest sprouting up along with karst formations. As we continued to climb into the mountains, the forests were gone! Left instead were burned areas (some still smoldering) and mountainsides covered with pampas grass – everywhere! Hmong villages proudly displayed signs announcing their relocation partners: Australia, UNICEF, Italy, the Laos People’s Party, etc. How these villagers lived without their forests and on these steep slopes without rice fields, without vegetable gardens? All that seems left for them is the grasses to make brooms. Signs of rubber businesses infiltrating were around although planting of trees was yet to be seen. In twenty years, the Laos villagers can score the rubber trees. In Malaysia they were ripping the trees out to plant oil palms since rubber was no longer lucrative in the world markets. Go figure!
We stopped in Phoukhoun, a village located at a crossroads leading to the Plain of Jars. Many tourists heading south out of Luang Prabang are stopping here with their guides, investigating the markets offerings. Judee gladly paid $5 for a cement cell with a double bed because they had a hot water shower and the other guest house didn’t even have running water. We met a German fellow riding a bike he bought in China with his heavy backpack strapped high on the back. Off for a beer. Perhaps he will join us.
Art’s comments on the ride: Oh God, not another 10% grade sign. Seems they have Xeroxed them for every twist and turn of this day’s route. The sun is hot and we are dripping as we creep up, up the twisty curvy road. More traffic busses, trucks and vans full of farangs creep by us usually with a friendly wave and thumbs up or toot. One bus load of farangs cheered and clapped from their observation point looking over the mountain tops and down the valley we had just climbed out of. These good wishes go a long way to push us over the top. The Hmong villagers here do not use traditional dress as everyday clothing, instead preferring lots of western garb mixed with sarongs for the women. The men wear a mix of army fatigues, camouflage pants and Levis jacket or sweat shirts. In town we sat in a shop doorway and observed the street activity as the sun dropped behind the mountain tops. This town exists on a ridge top, a ‘y’ intersection with both sides of the road lined with vendors and shops mostly one story wood shacks with tin roofs with merchandise spilling out into the street. Bicycles, motorbikes mix with the constant foot traffic.
March 11 Lao People's Democratic Republic/Luang >
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March 06 Lao People's Democratic Republic/Muang
Forty five kilometers took six hours. Obviously, there was a lot of climbing. It has been a long time since we have had to ride mountains/steep grades of 10% +, and after our extended holidays off the bike, today was exertion. The beginning of the ride out of Kasi we wheeled through pretty farming areas with bits and pieces of remaining forest sprouting up along with karst formations. As we continued to climb into the mountains, the forests were gone! Left instead were burned areas (some still smoldering) and mountainsides covered with pampas grass – everywhere! Hmong villages proudly displayed signs announcing their relocation partners: Australia, UNICEF, Italy, the Laos People’s Party, etc. How these villagers lived without their forests and on these steep slopes without rice fields, without vegetable gardens? All that seems left for them is the grasses to make brooms. Signs of rubber businesses infiltrating were around although planting of trees was yet to be seen. In twenty years, the Laos villagers can score the rubber trees. In Malaysia they were ripping the trees out to plant oil palms since rubber was no longer lucrative in the world markets. Go figure!
We stopped in Phoukhoun, a village located at a crossroads leading to the Plain of Jars. Many tourists heading south out of Luang Prabang are stopping here with their guides, investigating the markets offerings. Judee gladly paid $5 for a cement cell with a double bed because they had a hot water shower and the other guest house didn’t even have running water. We met a German fellow riding a bike he bought in China with his heavy backpack strapped high on the back. Off for a beer. Perhaps he will join us.
Art’s comments on the ride: Oh God, not another 10% grade sign. Seems they have Xeroxed them for every twist and turn of this day’s route. The sun is hot and we are dripping as we creep up, up the twisty curvy road. More traffic busses, trucks and vans full of farangs creep by us usually with a friendly wave and thumbs up or toot. One bus load of farangs cheered and clapped from their observation point looking over the mountain tops and down the valley we had just climbed out of. These good wishes go a long way to push us over the top. The Hmong villagers here do not use traditional dress as everyday clothing, instead preferring lots of western garb mixed with sarongs for the women. The men wear a mix of army fatigues, camouflage pants and Levis jacket or sweat shirts. In town we sat in a shop doorway and observed the street activity as the sun dropped behind the mountain tops. This town exists on a ridge top, a ‘y’ intersection with both sides of the road lined with vendors and shops mostly one story wood shacks with tin roofs with merchandise spilling out into the street. Bicycles, motorbikes mix with the constant foot traffic.
