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Lao People's Democratic Republic/Don Không Round the world trip 2008
1-24-08
It has only been two days of not riding and both of us are finding it a bit wearing. But, here in Savannakhet, we applied for our Vietnam Visas which will take three days to process. We rode here in a sawangthaeau, a pickup outfitted with bench seats facing each other in back and one down the center for passengers, with Bici tied to the roof rack. It was a bit like our Cambodia van ride: all the humanity possible stuffed in on top of rice bags, etc, and several passengers hanging off the back. Good the ride was only 70km. The sawangthaeu made several stops to add people and one stop at a military check point. We had passed several of these on the bike and were always waved through. Our driver got out of the sawangtheau and took what I presumed to be a log book of some sort with him. He handed the book to the seated military man who reached in between the pages and slid his hand, palm down, shuffling something (bribe?) into his pocket - so obvious in his slight of hand it was comical! Laos is ruled by the communist party; the majority of the Lao population agrarian; merchants, shop owners and business people are Vietnamese and Chinese.
The guide book mentioned in glowing terms about the French colonial architecture here in Savannakhet. Most is so dilapidated as to be uninhabitable, but a few have been restored and are truly lovely. There are a couple of smart restaurants and several guesthouses so our wait here for visas makes a pleasant break. We moved rooms today, trying to find one with plumbing that worked. It seems the bathroom sinks are loosely hung on the walls so they rock up and down. Drain pipes are not adjustable so they just come apart and deposit the drain water onto one’s feet. It is bad enough to wash the entire bathroom every time one takes a shower, now toothpaste dribbles all over our toes. We are such spoiled Americans. It seems these inconveniences are only difficult to deal with when we are tired, sick or don’t seem to foresee a change for a week or two. After all, this is our life these days, and we like to live in some comfort at 60+ years old. Spoiled!
Because we won’t be riding for a few weeks, our caloric intake will need to be reduced. My downfall is cheese and in touristy restaurants they serve it! In the evening we strolled the Mekong water front to watch the sunset lighting the sky over Thailand on the other bank a couple kilometers away. Locals were tending their vegetable gardens on the riverbanks, steep now in the dry season. In the wet monsoons, these gardens would be submerged by the river’s mighty flow. Umbrellas, tables and chairs, mats, cushions and low tables were set all along the walk, with food stalls serving up beer, soft drinks, and all sorts of food including hot pots of steaming broth kept hot over charcoal fires. To this broth diners added an assortment of offered vegetables, seafood, meats and condiments to create their own meal.
The weather is unusually breezy and cool, even during the day today: probably in the high 70’s/ low 80’s, making it very pleasant.
January 26 Lao People's Democratic >
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January 22 Lao People's Democratic
It has only been two days of not riding and both of us are finding it a bit wearing. But, here in Savannakhet, we applied for our Vietnam Visas which will take three days to process. We rode here in a sawangthaeau, a pickup outfitted with bench seats facing each other in back and one down the center for passengers, with Bici tied to the roof rack. It was a bit like our Cambodia van ride: all the humanity possible stuffed in on top of rice bags, etc, and several passengers hanging off the back. Good the ride was only 70km. The sawangthaeu made several stops to add people and one stop at a military check point. We had passed several of these on the bike and were always waved through. Our driver got out of the sawangtheau and took what I presumed to be a log book of some sort with him. He handed the book to the seated military man who reached in between the pages and slid his hand, palm down, shuffling something (bribe?) into his pocket - so obvious in his slight of hand it was comical! Laos is ruled by the communist party; the majority of the Lao population agrarian; merchants, shop owners and business people are Vietnamese and Chinese.
The guide book mentioned in glowing terms about the French colonial architecture here in Savannakhet. Most is so dilapidated as to be uninhabitable, but a few have been restored and are truly lovely. There are a couple of smart restaurants and several guesthouses so our wait here for visas makes a pleasant break. We moved rooms today, trying to find one with plumbing that worked. It seems the bathroom sinks are loosely hung on the walls so they rock up and down. Drain pipes are not adjustable so they just come apart and deposit the drain water onto one’s feet. It is bad enough to wash the entire bathroom every time one takes a shower, now toothpaste dribbles all over our toes. We are such spoiled Americans. It seems these inconveniences are only difficult to deal with when we are tired, sick or don’t seem to foresee a change for a week or two. After all, this is our life these days, and we like to live in some comfort at 60+ years old. Spoiled!
Because we won’t be riding for a few weeks, our caloric intake will need to be reduced. My downfall is cheese and in touristy restaurants they serve it! In the evening we strolled the Mekong water front to watch the sunset lighting the sky over Thailand on the other bank a couple kilometers away. Locals were tending their vegetable gardens on the riverbanks, steep now in the dry season. In the wet monsoons, these gardens would be submerged by the river’s mighty flow. Umbrellas, tables and chairs, mats, cushions and low tables were set all along the walk, with food stalls serving up beer, soft drinks, and all sorts of food including hot pots of steaming broth kept hot over charcoal fires. To this broth diners added an assortment of offered vegetables, seafood, meats and condiments to create their own meal.
The weather is unusually breezy and cool, even during the day today: probably in the high 70’s/ low 80’s, making it very pleasant.
