Deutsch
Thailand/Narathiwat Round the world trip 2007
9-11
Today we are leaving Chaing Mai after seven days of sight seeing and exploring. The sprawling city of over 150,000 population sits on the flat banks of the River Ping but just to the west are the highest mountain peaks in Thailand. One fine day we rented a motor scooter and rode out of the city and up the 10 km climb to the top of Doi Suthep. On the way up, we passed lots of cyclists on mountain bikes working their way to the top. We learned later that there are many riders who do this strenuous climb two or three times per week. The views out over the city cloaked in the morning haze reminded us of similar views in South America.
When we reached the Doi Suthep Temple we found it crowded with tourists and the usual vendor market and shops lining the steps up to the temple itself. We decided to run the gauntlet up the steep steps only to be greeted at the top with a sign: “Foreigner purchase ticket: 30 B”. We passed this opportunity to see another temple and descended to the vendors where Judee bargained for some bright and unusual wax string bracelets we thought friends and family might like. Next we puttered on past the Royal Palace to visit a native Hmong village 7 km off down a single lane track out into the rain forest. As we progressed, the lane became narrower and eventually turned into a muddy wrent. We parked the scooter and walked the last kilometer into the village perched on top of a mountain ridge. The village had one main street with two or three shops selling supplies to the locals and snacks for the visiting tourists. All of the structures in the village were constructed of wood. Houses were one story rectangles, few or no windows, ventilation through openings under the over hanging eves. All the houses had a solar panel outside on a pole with a line running into the house. As we strolled through the village, the inhabitants paid little attention to us. The residents in this hamlet do not wear their native dress but wear western garb. These mountain villages have been receivng much attention from Thailand’s beloved His Majesty (HM) the King to help move them to a level of self sufficiency and to stop their slash and burn farming. Yes, poppy cultivation continues and we have read in the Bangkok Post that opium production is up 25% from previous levels.
We decided to have lunch on the way down the mountain, so stopped off at the Doi Suthep vendor area for a bowl of soup, soft drinks and a potty break. Falling down the winding, curvy pavement, passing waterfalls and overlooks: what a joy!
Back in the city, off we go down a side road, sliding through the shop house canyons, out into the quiet residential area, making a turn to stop at a weaving and textile gallery. The owner was an English woman (Thai husband was a cyclist) who had developed an interest in Lao weaving of textiles and written a book covering the process. While Judee looked over the fabrics, I had a chance to speak with the woman and her husband. They graciously told me we could explore their compound and pointed out across the way, a traditional wooden, thatched roof Lao house they had constructed in their back garden. These houses are built up on stilts: sleeping and living up, cooking and bath down in the open area below.
On Sunday, we joined the Chaing Mai Sunday Bicycle Club. The large group of about 50 people gave us a warm welcome and introduced us and asked us a few questions about our journey. The club leader translated because, other than Toivo, we were the only farangs there! We started by riding a circuit around the old city, stopping at a special temple. Always we were given a complete explanation of the importance of special sights by an English-speaking member of the club. We doubled back to the beginning to pick up any tardy riders and then took off down the highway. It was fun to be in the middle of the chattering cyclists as we made our way to yet another temple. Upon arriving, everyone took off their shoes and padded inside, laughing and continuing to socialize. Toivo told us that even at weddings the conversation never slows or quiets. One of the members prepared a meal and everyone lined up to get soup bowls, rice, veggies, hot spices, and fruit plus ice cold water. After much socializing, eating and lounging we all remounted our bikes and headed home down a very small lane winding through the rice fields. We bought club jerseys for about $7 each and will proudly wear them as we remember the warm and friendly welcome these cyclists extended to us.
The next day we had paid for a tour in a bus to the highest peak in Thailand in Doi Inthanon National Park. Art really did not want to go, and after a night in the bathroom, he wasn’t feeling like going anywhere. Judee filled the room with Cipro and Gatorade and left skipping out to the bus. Hours spent in a bus did bring a fun group of people into the jungle forests at the edge of the Himalayas and up into the mists to see forever across to Myanmar (Burma). It was harder for Judee to sit in the bus for hours than to ride a bike! So much for tour groups. One fun aspect was meeting a couple of young German travelers who had spent the night at a Buddhist temple. They had their own private monk who taught them some about monk-life, leading them through long meditations and prayer. When I asked what the most surprising thing they learned about monks, they related that the monks pray with one hand and text-message on their cell phones with the other, that is, if they are not nodding off.
We returned to Bangkok via the overnight sleeper train. We showed up around 4pm, Bici was loaded into the baggage car and we sat ourselves in the wide seats assigned to us. Everyone left the train to get food at the local 7/11 before we pulled out of the station. It was said the food on the train was VERY expensive and not very good. We pulled out of the station on time at 6pm. By 9 pm the train staffers had everyone’s bed made up and tucked us all in. Cozily nestled into the sheets, blankets and pillows we fell asleep to the clack, clack tempo and the gentle swaying of the train. After midnight, Judee began to shiver with the cold air conditioning blowing into her curtained loft, so she crept into the lower bunk and snuggled in with Art. What a delight to awaken in our comfortable nest watching Bangkok pass by our window.
We rode Bici through Bangkok’s morning commuter traffic to Mike and Karen’s apartment where we will stay and stash our bike gear while in America for the next couple of months. This is the last post on our bike travels until December. Please check back!
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September 03 Thailand/Chaing Moi Weltreise 2007
Today we are leaving Chaing Mai after seven days of sight seeing and exploring. The sprawling city of over 150,000 population sits on the flat banks of the River Ping but just to the west are the highest mountain peaks in Thailand. One fine day we rented a motor scooter and rode out of the city and up the 10 km climb to the top of Doi Suthep. On the way up, we passed lots of cyclists on mountain bikes working their way to the top. We learned later that there are many riders who do this strenuous climb two or three times per week. The views out over the city cloaked in the morning haze reminded us of similar views in South America.
When we reached the Doi Suthep Temple we found it crowded with tourists and the usual vendor market and shops lining the steps up to the temple itself. We decided to run the gauntlet up the steep steps only to be greeted at the top with a sign: “Foreigner purchase ticket: 30 B”. We passed this opportunity to see another temple and descended to the vendors where Judee bargained for some bright and unusual wax string bracelets we thought friends and family might like. Next we puttered on past the Royal Palace to visit a native Hmong village 7 km off down a single lane track out into the rain forest. As we progressed, the lane became narrower and eventually turned into a muddy wrent. We parked the scooter and walked the last kilometer into the village perched on top of a mountain ridge. The village had one main street with two or three shops selling supplies to the locals and snacks for the visiting tourists. All of the structures in the village were constructed of wood. Houses were one story rectangles, few or no windows, ventilation through openings under the over hanging eves. All the houses had a solar panel outside on a pole with a line running into the house. As we strolled through the village, the inhabitants paid little attention to us. The residents in this hamlet do not wear their native dress but wear western garb. These mountain villages have been receivng much attention from Thailand’s beloved His Majesty (HM) the King to help move them to a level of self sufficiency and to stop their slash and burn farming. Yes, poppy cultivation continues and we have read in the Bangkok Post that opium production is up 25% from previous levels.
We decided to have lunch on the way down the mountain, so stopped off at the Doi Suthep vendor area for a bowl of soup, soft drinks and a potty break. Falling down the winding, curvy pavement, passing waterfalls and overlooks: what a joy!
Back in the city, off we go down a side road, sliding through the shop house canyons, out into the quiet residential area, making a turn to stop at a weaving and textile gallery. The owner was an English woman (Thai husband was a cyclist) who had developed an interest in Lao weaving of textiles and written a book covering the process. While Judee looked over the fabrics, I had a chance to speak with the woman and her husband. They graciously told me we could explore their compound and pointed out across the way, a traditional wooden, thatched roof Lao house they had constructed in their back garden. These houses are built up on stilts: sleeping and living up, cooking and bath down in the open area below.
On Sunday, we joined the Chaing Mai Sunday Bicycle Club. The large group of about 50 people gave us a warm welcome and introduced us and asked us a few questions about our journey. The club leader translated because, other than Toivo, we were the only farangs there! We started by riding a circuit around the old city, stopping at a special temple. Always we were given a complete explanation of the importance of special sights by an English-speaking member of the club. We doubled back to the beginning to pick up any tardy riders and then took off down the highway. It was fun to be in the middle of the chattering cyclists as we made our way to yet another temple. Upon arriving, everyone took off their shoes and padded inside, laughing and continuing to socialize. Toivo told us that even at weddings the conversation never slows or quiets. One of the members prepared a meal and everyone lined up to get soup bowls, rice, veggies, hot spices, and fruit plus ice cold water. After much socializing, eating and lounging we all remounted our bikes and headed home down a very small lane winding through the rice fields. We bought club jerseys for about $7 each and will proudly wear them as we remember the warm and friendly welcome these cyclists extended to us.
The next day we had paid for a tour in a bus to the highest peak in Thailand in Doi Inthanon National Park. Art really did not want to go, and after a night in the bathroom, he wasn’t feeling like going anywhere. Judee filled the room with Cipro and Gatorade and left skipping out to the bus. Hours spent in a bus did bring a fun group of people into the jungle forests at the edge of the Himalayas and up into the mists to see forever across to Myanmar (Burma). It was harder for Judee to sit in the bus for hours than to ride a bike! So much for tour groups. One fun aspect was meeting a couple of young German travelers who had spent the night at a Buddhist temple. They had their own private monk who taught them some about monk-life, leading them through long meditations and prayer. When I asked what the most surprising thing they learned about monks, they related that the monks pray with one hand and text-message on their cell phones with the other, that is, if they are not nodding off.
We returned to Bangkok via the overnight sleeper train. We showed up around 4pm, Bici was loaded into the baggage car and we sat ourselves in the wide seats assigned to us. Everyone left the train to get food at the local 7/11 before we pulled out of the station. It was said the food on the train was VERY expensive and not very good. We pulled out of the station on time at 6pm. By 9 pm the train staffers had everyone’s bed made up and tucked us all in. Cozily nestled into the sheets, blankets and pillows we fell asleep to the clack, clack tempo and the gentle swaying of the train. After midnight, Judee began to shiver with the cold air conditioning blowing into her curtained loft, so she crept into the lower bunk and snuggled in with Art. What a delight to awaken in our comfortable nest watching Bangkok pass by our window.
We rode Bici through Bangkok’s morning commuter traffic to Mike and Karen’s apartment where we will stay and stash our bike gear while in America for the next couple of months. This is the last post on our bike travels until December. Please check back!
